Thursday, July 16, 2015

The beauty and grace of men hanboks.

Hanbok is not only worn by women but for men- it's consists of jeogori (Top blouse) and baji (long pants). The concept of men's hanbok hardly changed over the years except the ones we have seen in the modern era is quite different than those day worn in Joseon dynasty or whenever we watch in a sageuk drama.

The nobleman (yangban) used to dress 'jungchimak' which has long lengthy sleeves. The lower part had splits on both sides and sometimes on the back. So whenever the person walks, it does create a flutter look. At times it was rather considered fashionable but to some studious scholars they considered nothing fanciful. When jungchimak was successfully banned out, it was totally out of everyone's sight.

Durumagi is another garment worn underneath the jungchimak. So durumagi serves as a house dress to replace jungchimak as the formal outwear for the noble men. 
Durumagi has shorter, tighter sleeves and no splits on sides or the back. The men's hanbok has remained relatively the same after durumagi took the place. 

The aristocrats usually wear a 'kkat' (a black looking hat) when going out. As for the richerpeople, their hats are usually decorated with colorful strings or beads showing the status. Even their durumagi is draped with a 'dopo' (a type of overcoat) accompanied with some jade tassle or precious stone. It'a all about status and wealth during those days. Sighs...

Try watching the recent sageuk dramas shown on the South Korean channels featuring the influential people? Don't they look very graceful and beautiful in colourful layers? Though they look beautiful but with so many layers it's indeed very hot to wear the traditional clothes especially during summer time. Imagine the layers worn underneath is nice during winter but if it's silk or the organza fabric, it's not easy filming wearing so these lengthy garment in summer.

The beautiful men hanboks can be seen in many dramas such as Moon Embraces the Sun, Princess' Man, Arang and the Magistrate, Sungkyunkwan Scandal, A Nighwatchman's Journal, Scholar Who Walks the Night...etc. Of all the dramas I have seen I am almost impressed with the hanboks worn by Song Joong Ki in SKK Scandal as his hanbok has flowery motifs on it with the colours representing he's a typical rich playboy.
The next one I should say is Lee Jun Ki who looks so good in traditional hanboks! Swoons!

In Scholar Who Walks the Night is a typical vampire scholar always in dark, black or grey hanbok outfits yet he presents a mysterious yet attractive image. 

  

 

Men's hanbok doesn't necessarily need to be colorful- it can be dark colours representing their roles and characters. The silk, colourful ones do show the status and aura of that person wearing it. The simple and poor citizens would be donning plain boring colours without any accessories. However the nobles, officials, royals would be dressed in colourful hanboks, tassles and their hats do show their status. 

Even their shoes worn by the nobles and officials are either trimmed with embroidery otherwise it'd be just be plain strawmat shoes worn over their white socks to cover their feet. 

To me the noble shoes look more like mocassin to me...except the olden age version. But their straw mat shoes look so fragile that one can injure their feet if they bump over a stone or get pricked by insects or any wild roots in the jungle path.










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